International shipping is available for customers outside the USA. All customs fees/duties/taxes incurred are the responsibility of the customer to pay. Feel free to contact me regarding any questions about international orders.

My glass necks can be attached with the same screws used to attach a stock wood neck. I drill four holes in the heel of the neck and fill them with clear epoxy. After the epoxy cures I drill a smaller pilot hole in the epoxy where the screws will go. The epoxy grips the threads of the screws keeping it securely attached to the body.

It's my last name. It's cool. No, I did not make it up.

The weight of my guitars varies a bit. To keep the weight down the body is mostly hollow. The lightest guitar I've built was a Starlight II which came out 12.1lbs. Within the range of some vintage solid body guitars and some modern bass guitars. A wide padded strap helps distribute the weight to a comfortable level.

I currently have a Jazz model available for order.

More durable than many assume. In the video below I perform a few “stress tests” to demonstrate the durability of my instruments.

I have been able to remove a few frets after bonding them in/on the fretboard. It's a very delicate procedure. But to answer the question the way I install frets does not allow them to be removed. I use stainless steel frets for this reason. Stainless steel frets are known for having an incredibly long lifespan even with heavy use. Removing the frets is unnecessary in a glass neck.

Possibly. There are some things I am currently unwilling or unable to accommodate. They are as follows; Exact copies of other guitars (similar body shapes are OK), Headless necks, Floyd Rose and Strat style tremolo systems, Multi-scale fingerboards, alternative headstock designs, etc. This is not a complete list. If you have an idea for something different that I haven't incorporated or done before feel free to email me at morningstarglassguitars@gmail.com or alex@morningstarglassguitars.com I would be happy to discuss a customized glass guitar with you.

It will take several months before I am able to complete any given order. The shipping times stated on the product pages are estimates. Your guitar or neck may be ready before or after the time frame stated. Guitars are made to order and take a significant time to finish. Depending on how many orders I have outstanding it will take several months before your guitar is made and ready to ship. The current lead time is 6-9 months. Feel free to contact me at morningstarglassguitars@gmail.com for more details on current production wait times. Production times are subject to change. Supplies and materials are purchased immediately after your order is placed. All sales are final. Upgrades and changes may be requested for your guitar depending on the details and timing of the request.

Morningstar Glass Guitars warrants each instrument to be free from defects in materials and workmanship. the following items are warranted for a period of one (1) year from the date on which the guitar is delivered: pickups, switches, jacks, controls, all other electronic components, tuning machines, hardware, pickguards/control plates, nuts, and frets This warranty does not cover the following: wear and tear from normal use and any damage that is the result of misuse, abuse, or unauthorized modifications, damages from unauthorized or self-made repairs, improper maintenance, accidents, exposure to adverse temperature, and other careless action, which by its nature results in damage to the instrument or to components not made by Morningstar Glass Guitars. This warranty is valid only to the original purchaser of the instrument.

This is a tricky subject to cover due to various misconceptions and ideas that have become accepted as fact over time. Truss rods were invented to compensate for the increased tension of steel string guitars. Most classical guitars do not have truss rods as there is not enough tension to bend the neck. The same is true with aluminum necks. Wood warps with changes in temperature and humidity so a truss rod is needed to straighten a wood neck when there is more tension involved. Early truss rods were simply non-adjustable steel rods whose purpose was to keep the neck STRAIGHT. Since glass doesn't warp and is extremely rigid a truss rod is not required. Regarding relief in the neck. This is a topic that I find a bit odd. At some point guitarists decided that some relief in the neck is required for optimal playability. I think this requires a more critical look into why that is not necessarily true, but I can't cover all that here. With that said however, I make my glass fretboards slightly thicker/higher at the nut and thinner/lower where they meet the body. The difference is roughly 0.007"- 0.01" This creates a very slight and continuous downward slope on the entirety of the fretboard allowing the strings to clear each fret. Eliminating any potential fretbuzz along the whole fretboard. Not just in the middle of the neck that relief from a truss rod would create. Finally, truss rod adjustments are not how you adjust the action of the strings. That's what the saddles on the bridge are for and to a lesser degree the nut itself.

Payment plans are available through Affirm. Learn more about Affirm here. This option can be selected during checkout.

I made a video demonstrating the build process. Most questions should be covered here.

Refunds are only available if the guitar is damaged during shipping. The price of shipping includes 3rd party shipping insurance. If the guitar is damaged during shipping keep all packing material (cushioning, box, case, etc) in the condition it arrived in. Contact me at morningstarglassguitars@gmail.com as soon as possible with photographs and other info. I will handle the majority of the claims process if damage does occur but may need some assistance from you. No need to worry, all guitars shipped thus far have arrived safely.

Glass has unique acoustic properties that help create interesting yet subtle harmonics within chords. Additionally the sustain of a glass guitar is unbeatable. The uniqueness and beauty of a glass guitar make it a real showpiece. An instrument guaranteed to turn heads.

I make about 12-16 guitars a year. My guitars take a significant amount of time to make. I do not have interest in mass production. I like to focus on building each guitar one at a time. All my attention is on making that guitar perfect. While I do cut necks and make fretboards in small batches for later use, I usually focus on a single guitar at any given time.

I live and work at my shop in Gainesville Florida. My shop is located at my home address which is why I don't broadcast my location on my website.

After stringing up your glass guitar take some time to get used to playing it and the unique feel of the glass. Listen to the interesting harmonics and sustain the glass produces. While I've designed my guitars to withstand minor accidents (bumps against furniture, mic stands, etc) it's still an instrument made of glass, so treat the guitar with care. No neck bends or excessively swinging it around. My guitars are on the heavy side and I highly recommend using a wide padded strap which helps distribute the weight to a comfortable level.

Glass cleaner works well for cleaning the body. 91% Isopropyl alcohol also works well and is my go to cleaner for most of the guitar. Avoid cleaning the plastic control plate, sides of the body and headstock decal with alcohol as it may cause discoloration. Additionally a microfiber cloth is an excellent way to clean the guitar without any need for chemicals.

Loose connections can be repaired by removing the control plate and carefully re-soldering a disconnected wire or faulty potentiometer. Changing out pickups on my guitars is a difficult procedure I don't recommend attempting on your own. I highly suggest going with a set you will want in the guitar indefinitely.

For guitars with the standard bridge and tuning machines the following info will outline how to put strings on your guitar. It may be easier to lay the guitar down on a flat surface when adding/changing strings 1. To help feed the string through the top loading bridge put a short 1/2” kink at the end of each string before feeding it through the appropriate hole. This kink will help guide the string above the saddles. Pull the string through the bridge until the ends are positioned against the back of the bridge. 2. a) Turn tip of string post until it clicks into place. This aligns string post holes. b) Note string hole is off center. Turn knob to rotate post until string hole is positioned away from knob. Thread string up through bottom of hole and pull firmly. See drawing. c) Turn to begin tuning. At first, only inner “Locking Cam” is turning, securely locking the string. Once the string is locked, outer post will turn. d) Bring string to pitch. 3. The saddles on the bridge have adjustable rollers where the string sits that allow you to customize the string spacing at the bridge. When changing strings it is common for the string to move the roller out of its previous position. It may also come off the roller while the string is still loose. When adding tension to the string be sure to check that the string is positioned on the roller and adjust the roller position if needed. It is easier to adjust the roller position when the string is not under full tension. To adjust the position slightly lift the string near the saddle with your finger and adjust the roller to the desired position. Place the string back on the roller. Then bring the string to pitch.

When not in use keep the guitar in its case, on a sturdy guitar stand or wall hanger. Always unplug the output cable when not playing.